Category Archives: Travel

Travel

Christmas in France

I thought that I was having a pleasant if restrained Christmas – a fancy half-langoustine done up by the charcuter in aspic, with a dressing of boiled egg and tomato, a slice of truffle pate, some pre-prepared potato dauphinois, and a few fancy sweets, but having read the local Autun paper, which filled its front page with a no doubt highly popular vox pop of “what are you doing for Christmas?” I know that I’m serious underdoing it. Each respondent has an almost identical list: snails, foie gras, oysters, roast beef, smoked salmon, cheeses, to which there are added variations, mostly around dessert, along the lines of chocolate mousse, Christmas biscuits and Christmas ice cream.

It still seems to be the women who are responsible for this labour – although it was clear from the crowded butcher in Etang sur Arroux last on Christmas Eve that the French form of the ready meal – as prepared by your local shop – is well used. “How long should I cook it for? What temperature?” the woman in front of me was anxiously asking. Most shoppers were taking away a wooden crate containing several large foil dishes – enough to feed a small army.

I’m thinking about spending the afternoon working in the garden, but perhaps that will shock the locals – it seems Christmas is sacred in French – in a carefully secular sense – the small towns and hamlets are all festooned with lights (as are many of the houses), but all in a carefully secular – snowmen and reindeer – sense. I was surprised that the local paper is full of notices from mayoral and other official offices saying they are closed on Christmas Day (well isn’t that kind of obvious?) but I suspect this is a sign of anxiety about the officially secular state – and if that’s the case, shouldn’t offices be open today?

Travel

A Wifi cafe near the Gare de Lyon?

Surprisingly difficult to find, but there is the curiously named Le Killy-Jen up the Boulevard Diderot, in the direction away from the Seine, which is pretty chilled – and even more so on Fridays, a[[arently, when chair massages are offered….

Travel

Why you should never pay a mahout in Bangkok (or Phuket)

At regular intervals, elephants go on the rampage in Bangkok, sometimes simply because it is just an incredibly stressful environment for them (I remember some years ago a woman being crushed to death in a car because drivers in a queue all started blowing their horns and the elephant unsurprisingly lost it), and sometimes they are mistreated.

In this case the latter … the mahoutt “left it chained without food since Wednesday morning while he visited a relative”

If you are thinking “somewhere I read that elephants were banned from Bangkok” – well you’re not wrong – that’s been “done” about six times… but policemen will take bribes, plus there’s the fact that since Thailand has virtually no forest left, having logged it all, there’s no work for elephants in the countryside.

History Travel

The usual York scenes

I spent a day in the city, since I was nearbyish (Huddersfield), and trying to avoid a horror (three trains and a bus) journey back to London on Saturday night. So instead I got the horror Sunday night train trip of (two trainloads crammed into one) journey instead – cattle truck hardly did it justice.

Still I got to see Clifford’s Tower, with its sad history…

1clifford2

York Minster…
1minister2

And was reminded that this was where Constantine was crowned emperor…
1constantine

Possibly under this very column…
1column

I found it a curious city – one of those where the modern and the ancient are mixed in sometimes frustrating ways – here’s the wonderful ancient Shambles, there’s M&S; here’s a wonderful medieval hall, there’s a shabby bus stop.

Which kind of made Jorvik Viking site somehow right – they’ve obviously done an enormously good job on the archaeology, and really ineteresting reconstruction, but then they’ve kind of turned it into a half-hearted theme park, so you ride around the reconstruction and don’t get the chance to stop and look at things nearly as closely as I’d have liked.

Possibly the best bit in the entrance, where you walk down (more than two normal flights) through the layers…
1jorvik

1jorvik2

And I wouldn’t recommend arriving on a Saturday night and wandering around town, as I did – it is hen and stag night city, which isn’t an attractive scene…

History Travel

York Castle Museum – social history par excellence

Notes from Sunday’s trip around the museum – which really is a very fine show, with a focus very much on local, social history

Cleaning
The claim is that there was not much cleaning to be done before Victorian revolution of “stuff”. Sand was used on floors as it soaked up grease and dirt, mixed with ground oyster shell to clean food utensils. In the country bran was used for “washing up”; the husks soaked with fat and food remnants fed to pigs.

Early mechanical cleaners blew the dust upwards, supposedly allowing it to be swept up more easily. Hubert Cecil Booth recognised that this was the wrong way around and in 1901 patented the vacuum cleaner. The first was mounted on a horse drawn cart and pipes fed through windows.

In 1908 James Murray Spangler invented the first lightweight domestic vacuum; William H Hoover bought the rights.

An 18th-century tax on soap put it out of reach of very poor. Only repealed in 1853.

Moules’ earth closet was patented by the Reverend in 1860. The tank held dry earth, which was flushed into bucket after use.

The first toilet paper appeared in 1857, billed as medicated paper and sold as sheets in flat packet. To avoid embarrassment chemists sold it from under the counter. First roll in 1928, soft paper in 1932 and first coloured paper in 1957.

Urine was added to water to help clean clothes and bleached them because contained ammonia. In Yorkshire it was called wetin or old wash. Lye was also used, made by passing water through clean wood ashes and known as buck wash.

In a comment on today’s obsession with cleanliness, the quote was of an old saying “Every man must eat a peck of dirt in his life (about 6 litres).”

Babies
One remarkable exhibit is of a caul worked into parchment that became record of birth for mountain family from 1830 to 1860.

In the very poor area of Walmgate York in 1898 one in four babies died. The 1902 midwives’ act made for big drop.

Really telling local stories, here are the baby goods of Mrs Hull, whose son Stephen was born in 1956 after she’d had five miscarriages and an ectopic pregnancy. She wasn’t allowed even to carry handbag during the pregnancy. She was in labour from 1am saturday until 7pm sunday. The baby was allergic to milk and had to be fed with marie biscuits soaked in very weak tea on a spoon.

Farming

In east Yorkshire there was a unique way of life: the horsemen were young and unmarried and remained on annual contracts long after rest of country stopped the practice. Usually when they got married, however, they became skilled farm labourers who had little to do with horses. (Seems like an awful waste.)

This is a bee skep, which was used to keep bees before wooden hives invented. On moors left on a flat stone, ideally in a sheltered, sunny position.

1beehive

A common tool was a turnip chopper. This was an important part of 18th and 19th crop rotations, but awkward for animals to eat.

Comb-making
Oxhorns were steeped in water for months to soften, solid tips cut off for buttons. Then a tradesman called a horn presser cut the hollow horn along length, soaked it again and careful held over fire, moving constantly. Scorched horn lost malleability, when soft enougj opened with pincers and heated bw two iron plates, plates were then turned over to craftsmen to be carved or turned. A horn comb factory was established in York in 1794 by Joseph Rougier and became largest in Britain; closed 1931 due to competition with plastics

1comb

The museum also boasts a fine little collection of medieval porcelain (unfortunately unlabelled)…
read more »

Travel

Don’t use EuropeRail

… at least not for France and Germany (or unless you are booking at the last minute or don’t care about the price).

That’s my advice after booking a rather complicated itinerary for the end of next week that runs Paris-Nuremburg-Hamburg-Paris. Using the German site saved me at least 50%; you could print out most of the tickets yourself; and they’ve got a very good hotel booking section – definitely recommended!