Monthly Archives: February 2007

Avignon Travel

I defect to the French

A gorgeous day yesterday, too nice to be spent in museums, so I started out at the famous Pont Saint-Benezet, famous chiefly, I gather, for a rather irritating children’s song, which was anyway factually incorrect, since in the 19th century they danced under, rather than on, the bridge – probably safer. But still the 19th-century did save four spans of the rather remarkable structure. It was built in the 12th century – what was described as the “first bridge” – although archaeologists have found it had a Roman predecessor, and the medieval constructors used its foundations, at least in part.

bridge

But the Rhone was still a big challenge – and it was beaten – the legend says by a God-inspired shepherd boy of 11 who came down to the town and told the people to build the bridge, laying the first, impossibly large, foundation stone himself. That was of course Benezet – who is buried in the lower of these two chapels – well he was, until his body went on one of those inevitable medieval wandering courses.

That first bridge was pulled down by the nasty French, after the Avgnonaise, an early independent Republic under the suzerainty of the Count of Toulouse, were so unwise as to side with the Albigensians (believers in Manicheism). (The walls, and the merchants and nobles great defensive tower houses went too.) But the bridge soon went up again and continued in use until the 17th century.
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Travel

Pride cometh before a fall

I’ve been feeling rather good about my French this trip. Not that I’d claim for a second that any French person doesn’t know I’m an Anglo as soon as I open my mouth, but increasingly I’m finding that the tourist office answers my questions in French, in French, which used not to be the case, even if the nice lady on the TGV buffet did explain her French for “you’ve got to stir the hot chocolate a lot” in English as well – but it is not a phrase that immediately leaps to the comprehension, so I might have been looking a bit blank.

I even spent quite a bit of time last night shamelessly evesdropping – well the rather loud man was giving a lecture to the waiters rather than holding a conversation – on French national politics, and following it quite well. He was laying into someone, I think Sarkozy, for being a marionette of George Bush, and about the Iraq war generally. But he was also saying, more or less, that France needed a Napoleon, so I feared I was listening to the National Front, but eventually he did say he was for Segolene Royal.

I was going to go over and ask him what he thought about global warming but got distracted by a British couple who sat down beside me – the classic hapless Brits – not a word of French between them, and they are planning to buy a “big block of land – 100s of acres” somewhere wholly French. And they were taking sips of Coca-Cola in between the wine – mon dieu!

I even spent an hour chatting to the hotel porter in French about life, feminism, green politics etc – well OK it might not have been the most philosophical level of discourse, but I sailed through with only the occasional resort to “say the English word with a French accent and it might even be right” approach. (OK< he speaks English as well, which helps.) But then, the letdown. I was in the camera shop buying some batteries, when a Mormon missionary from Nevada who's been here for two years (yes he told me his life story) came straight over and spoke to me in English. Sorry to the French proprietor, to whom I didn't exchange the customary pleasantries as I fled - but I suspect she understood.

Avignon History Travel

A visit to the Palais de Papes

palais3

It is big, really big, and heavy, like the oppressive weight of the Catholic Church, although I can’t help wondering if it would have proved quite such a tourist attraction had not Pope Clement VI added those two curvy, sexy frivolous little mini-towers on the front, even though they are architecturally rather silly when lined up with the rest of the building.
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Cycling Environmental politics

A limp response

I recently pointed to a petition urging the UK government to do more to allow cycles on trains. Here’s No 10’s limp response – basically, “well we have asked nicely”.

History

What state was that in 1200?

A useful resource for answering such questions: Periodical Historical Atlas of Europe – maps at roughly 100-year intervals.

Carnival of Feminists

Carnival of Feminists No 31 (in two! parts)

It’s big; it’s huge; it’s ginormous … Okay I think you’ve got the message.

Carnival of Feminists No 31 is now up on Truly Outrageous and it is truly spectacular: you could start at part one and then go on to part two, or even reverse that if you’re feeling contrary.

Doesn’t matter; you’ll still get a spectacular collection of feminists posts: there’s some hugely powerful work on the situation of disadvantaged women in the US, particularly in accessing health care (all those being nasty about the NHS please note). Then there’s happy memories of Tillie Olsen and Molly Ivins, and then a venture to the wilds of philosophy.

BUt don’t waste time here – go over there and check it out!

(And apologies for the late notice on my part – I can only claim in my own defence the distraction of holidays…)