Category Archives: Women’s history

History Women's history

Beauty and fashion as a cultural construct


This is a postcard postmarked in Bristol at 10pm on April 11, 1907, labelled “Miss Edna May”. That anyone could have considered that hat a flattering or attractive piece of fashion is beyond me…

I think this must be the actress who was born Edna May Nutter (can see why she dropped the surname…) although the photographer (or perhaps retoucher) has done a good job in this pic in hiding her “horse face”. (Who says the past was genteel?)

The message on the back, sent to a Miss E.M. Ingles of 71 Marle Hill Pde, Cheltenham, is equally blunt: “Dear Eva, Just a postcard to help you on. Can you let know by Sunday morn. the name of the Sec.y of the Education Cmm.ttee for Cheltenham. That means I want a letter. Yours etc. Percy.”

The tone is definitely exasperated and blunt. You have to wonder why it mattered…

UPDATE: Thanks to Penny, who in the comments pointed out that I had the wrong actress Edna May.

Early modern history History Women's history

Add your five early women authors to this cumulative meme…

A brilliant idea, which I just found on Heo Cwaeth. This is a collection of pre-1800 women authors. You take the existing list, and add five of your own.

So, the existing list (taken straight from Heo Cwaeth, who describes it as “the really dead women authors meme“. She also links to many of the texts, but I’m still defrosting after a very cold, wet afternoon of canvassing, so I’ll send you back to her for those):
Bardiac’s Starter five:
Behn, Aphra – Oroonoko
Christine de Pisan (aka Pizan) – The Book of the City of Ladies
Julian of Norwich – Revelations of Divine Love
Locke, Anne (aka Ane Lok, etc) – A Meditation of a Penitent Sinner
Marie de France – The Lais of Marie de France

Dr. Virago adds:
The Paston Women – The Paston Letters
Margery Kempe – The Book of Margery Kempe
Anonymous – The Floure and the Leafe(Her reasoning for this is on her blog)
Lady Mary Wroth – Poems

La Lecturess adds:
Anne Askew – The Examinations of Anne Askew
Mary Sidney – Psalms
Anne Finch – Poems
Katherine Phillips – Poems
Teresa of Avila – Life

Amanda adds:
Bradstreet, Anne: collected poems
Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz: Fama y obras póstumas
Lanyer, Aemilia: Salve Deus Rex Judaeorum
Wroth, Lady Mary: Urania

Medieval Woman adds:
Trotula – The Diseases of Women
Female Troubador Poets:- La Comtessa de Dia – “A chantar m’er” & other Trobairitz poetry excerpted.
Hrostvitha of Gandersheim (c.930-c.1002) – Plays Gallicanus & Dulcitius (My note: She wrote a few more plays and poems listed on this post here.)

Heo Cwaeth adds:
Hildegard von Bingen (1098-1179) Scivias and Liber Divinorum Operum (plus a whole bunch of other stuff I plan to address later in a MWIA post)
Rachel Speght (1597 – Some time after 1621) Mouzell for Melastomus and Mortalities Memorandum
Anna Comnena (1093-1153) The Alexiad
Frau Ava (1060-1127) First named German poetess. “Johannes,” “Leben Jesu,” “Antichrist,” “Das Jüngste Gericht” (That’s in MHG)
Dhuoda (9th century, inexact dates) Handbook for William: A Carolingian Woman’s Counsel for Her Son (at Sunshine for Women) and a dual-language version from Cambridge UP

And my additions:
Sei Shonagon, The Pillow Book of Sei Shonagon (A lady in waiting to the Japanese empress c. 965AD) Favourite extracts here and here.
Eliza Haywood The History of Miss Betsey Thoughtless (1751) (and much else)
Chen Tong, Tan Ze and Qian Yi, authors of The Peony Pavilion: Commentary Edition by Wu Wushan’s Three Wives (1694) They were his successive wives, by the way…
Isabella Whitney, The Copy of a Letter, lately written in meeter by a yonge Gentilwoman: to her unconstant lover (1567) and A Sweet Nosegay, or Pleasant Posy: Containing a Hundred and Ten Philosophical Flowers (1573)
Elizabeth Elstob, The Rudiments of Grammar for the English-Saxon Tongue (1715).

Women's history

A great week to be born…

A short list of birth dates:

  • March 30: Anna Sewell (1820-1878) – author of Black Beauty – yes, pure melodrama, but like many, many seven-year-olds before me, I was entranced. (And the book hasn’t been out of print in 130 years.)
  • April 2: Maria Sibylla Merian (1647-1717) – she took what we might call a mid-life gap year, or otherwise an astonishing adventure, and made it pay with her art. (Some of the images here. Or you can see some of the originals in the Enlightenment Gallery at the British Museum – I admire them regularly.)
  • April 3: Jane Digby (1807-1881) – more full-on adventure – this English aristocrat eloped with the Greek count, then ran off with an Albanian general, then finally finished up with a desert sheik about 20 years her junior. But really, what she loved, I reckon, was adventure.

    (I know these dates thanks to the excellent Born On This Day Yahoo group, which has a daily email on a woman subject, complete with a links and references collection.)

  • Lady of Quality Women's history

    Fanny Burney versus Maria Edgeworth

    Miss Frances Williams Wynn is returning from a break today (sorry – the Green Party has taken precedence), and being rather nasty about the author we know as Fanny Burney, while defending – obviously against some challenge – her right to be known as the author of Evelina.

    I cannot endure her excessive personal vanity, her nauseous repetition of all the compliments made to her under the shallow pretence of telling the world how much pleasure the paternal heart of Dr. Burney derived from them.

    But we can’t accuse Miss Williams Wynn of being prejudiced against women writers, for she sings the praises of Maria Edgeworth, of whom, I confess, I had not previously heard.

    Politics Women's history

    A Monday morning inspiration

    The New York Times has just run a long portrait of Mukhtar Mai, the Pakistani woman who, having spoken out against her own gang rape, has become a magnet for similar victims, who she is trying to help, while also running a girls’ school and campaigning to change the position of women within her tribal society.

    Every day, poor and desperate women and girls with tear-smudged cheeks arrive in this remote and impoverished village, seeking sanctuary. Every night, up to a dozen of them sleep on the floor in Mukhtar’s bedroom beside her. (She has given her bed to the principal of the girls’ elementary school she started here.)
    One visitor is a lovely 7-year-old girl who breaks down in huge, heartbreaking sobs as she tells how the servant of a rich family raped her, and how the rich family then threatened to kill her and her family unless she recanted her accusation.
    Then there’s Fauzia Bibi, a 30-year-old who was raped and tortured by eight men for two days to punish her family because her uncle supposedly had an affair with a woman from their clan. The attackers are threatening to kill her entire
    family unless she recants.
    Inspired by Mukhtar, these women are standing their ground. They are risking their lives — and, in anguish, those of their loved ones — to prosecute their attackers. It’s a lesson in courage and civics I’ll never forget.

    OK – it is a bit heavy on the melodrama, but there is a wonderful story to tell. The NYT has hidden the story behind a paywall but it is interesting that it has been picked up by the Pakistani Daily Times. A demonstration of how Western journalists can sometimes make a difference.
    ***
    An interesting piece about the environment which suggests that greens should stop talking about saving the planet and start talking about saving the human race. We might manage to wipe out most of the vertebrates, but the microbes and the insects are pretty much human-proof, and no matter how much of a mess we make, they’ll carry on.

    Feminism Women's history

    Is fashion sex, or is sex fashion?

    I read a comment this morning from someone who’s been reading the new Women’s Review of Books, about the “raunch culture”, on the “sexualisation of fashion”. And in one of those epiphanies you sometimes get when half-asleep and caffeine-deprived, I thought: “But fashion has always been sexualised!”

    Now I’m a little more awake, and with some tea inside me, I still think that’s the case. (Not always what happens with such flash thoughts.) The examples are far too multiple to quote, but think of everything from Tudor codpieces on men, to Victorian bustles, designed, off course, to accentuate women’s buttocks.

    I find a lot of the feminist criticisim of so-called “raunch” culture offensive, because it reeks of the environment in which I grew up, in which women felt they could and should “police” the behaviour of other women to fit within very narrow confines of what was “respectable”. “Tut, tut, mutton dressed up as lamb,” was one of the favourite ones, for any woman judged to be wearing clothing “too young” for her.

    And many woman lived – and some do still live – in fear of breaking these rules. I recall once being in a hairdresser’s in Walthamstow (east London) when a classic blue rinse set lady came in in a flap. She gone out without an umbrella and it had started raining. Her “set”, the armour-plated fixing of her hair into a helmet, which she paid for once a week as a sign of respectability, was in danger of being ruined. She wanted a rain hat. No one had one, but the hairdresser offered her a shower cap instead. A look of pure horror crossed the woman’s face. “I couldn’t go out in THAT. It is not the proper thing.”

    She was really, genuinely panicking about not looking “right”, “respectable”.

    Whereas I frequently, should I need to go out in the morning, to say walk a dog, stagger out in whatever odd collection of clothing happens to be piled at the end of the bed, with no more attention to my hair than my fingers run through it, and if anyone doesn’t like it, tough.

    And I mostly wear hipster jeans, because ones with higher waists never fit my shape. (One woman at a bus-stop in central London once told me: “You should be ashamed of yourself at your age with those jeans,” and I laughed – genuinely laughed. Because I’ve been empowered to do so.)

    Of course some women, particularly young women, are stressed by pressures to show off their bodies when they are uncomfortable with them, and they need to be told and retold “wear what you want”. But attacking other young women for wearing what they want, if that happens to be T-shirts with sexy slogans or midriff-baring tops, is only playing into the hands of the puritan rightwingers, those who are training their girls in ways like this, turning them into “young ladies” of VIctorian form – and with narrowed, restricted Victorian brains to match.

    Wear what you like, and tell other women to do the same! And then tell them they look good!