The tiles of the Palais des Papes

Okay, you might say this is a bit of a specialist subject, and you might be right, but who could resist this hare?

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Unfortunately there’s only one room with the original 14th-century tiles surviving in situ, and you’re not allowed into that!, but there is a nice collection of original ones from around the palace in the consistory hall. As a visitor you’re directed to the surviving frescos, and there’s no doubt they are very fine, particularly those attributed to Matteo Giovanetti in Saint John’s chapel off the consistory.

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But somehow, I find more moving, more evocative, these products of certainly humble workmen, working fast, but showing real artistic skill. And the colours are marvelous – a real sign of the art of the workman who blended them without the aid of modern chemistry.

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That face must have been based on someone the artist knew…

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And perhaps a hunting dog had just leapt on an insect when the artist sketched this one…

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